Hair inspired by American Horror Story

Equipment:
Paddle Brush
Tail comb 
Curling Tongs
Hair Grips

Step by Step:

1. Using your tail comb, put the hair into a side parting, making sure there is lift at the root. 
2. At the front on the side of the parting, take two one inch sections, about the width of the curling iron and curl them all away from the parting. Do the same to the other side but with three one inch sections.
3. Secure these with hair grips.
4. Take the section just behind the front curls, with a width of about three curls (three inches) and curl it horizontally and downwards. 
5. Below that take a section about six inches wide and split into tow and curl both sides. 
6. Using three inch wide sections, now curl the rest of the way down in the middle of the head. 
7. With the hair left at either side, take sections and curl towards the face, securing all with hair grips. 

Creating an Up Do 
8. After the curls have cooled, remove the hair grips but leave the five main at the front. 
9. Brush through the curls to loosen them.
10. Trying to hide the grips as much as possible, pin the curls to the bottom of the hair.
11. make sure the hair looks like it has some lift by using the tail comb.
12. Take the grips out of the hair in the front, creating a wave against the head. Then pin in place.

Down Do
8. Take all of the hair out of the grips after the hairs cooled. Using an over and under motion, smooth the curls with a paddle brush. 
9. On the front sections of both sides of the partings, push the hair so it goes back and then curls back on itself.
10. Make the hair fall where you like, making the curls in the same direction clump together. 
11. back comb the roots for extra volume.

12. To finish off the look add a bit of shine spray.

Client Consultation

The best base for any makeup is a clean face. Cleansing, toning and moisturising is essential if the model is already wearing makeup prior to the shoot otherwise the finished look will look grubby.

First of all the model must be sat down int he artist chair and asked if they have any allergy's as this could prevent you using a certain product on their skin to avoid irritation.

Once this has been discussed the makeup artist then must wash their hands, its best to tell your model you're doing this just to reassure them.

Lay down some couch roll and the equipment you'll need;

• Cleanser
• Toner 
• Moisturiser
• Cotton wool pads
• Baby Buds

Cleanse;

Take the cleanser on the cotton wool pads and starting at the neck move upwards. removing anything on the face.

take extra care around the delicate eye area, even asking the model if they would want to do this themselves as they have a better judgement of how firm to be.

With the eyebrows go against the hair before going the opposite way to remove all product.

Finally, taking some cleanser on the back of your hand and dipping a baby bud in it,gently go over the lash line to remove any hard to remove mascara or eyeliner.

Take care around piercings. The model may agree to remove them, if not ask them to go around their piercing with a baby bud.

All the makeup must be removed before moving onto the next step.

Tone;

Repeat the above steps with toner to remove the cleanser residue and close the pores.

Moisturise;

Apply a pea sized amount of moisturiser to the skin to act as a base under the makeup. Gently massage this into the skin using upwards motions. 

Dark Eyes and Lips

Needed

Cleanser, toner and moisturiser.

eye primer

Illamasqua’s Translucent Powder

Cream Shadow 

flat brush 

blending brush 

small rounded brush

Illamasqua Reflections Palette

Illamasqua Neutral Palette 

Liquid/pencil or gel liner

Optional- lashes 

mascara

Method:
1- Prep the skin using cleanser, toner and moisturiser.
2- Powder under the eyes heavily, using a powder puff, so that excess eye shadow is caught and doesn't transfer onto the skin.
3- Using cream shadow place this all over the lid to give the shadows something to hold onto.
4- Choose a colour scheme that gives a mid, light and dark for the lid, inner and outer corners of the eye. 
5- begin with the mid colour. Apply this to the whole lid blending out with a blending brush. 
6- Using the dark colour on the outer corners of the eye and under the water line, blend out to create a smokey effect.
7- Apply the lightest shade to the inner corners of the eye this highlights and opens up the eye.
8- Using your chosen liner, mine being liquid, draw along the upper lash line. A flick is optional.
9- Finish the eyes with either mascara or false lashes.
10- Brush away any excess powder under the eye.

Optional-
11. With an angled brush and colour matching your models brow colour, fill in the eyebrows. Sticking to the natural shape of the brow.

13. Using the lip rouge mini palette, an angled brush and colour LC010 I filled in the lips. 

Creating Light Scarring Using Moulds

Need:

cleanser 

toner

baby buds

ProsAide adhesive

supra colour palettes

ultra foundation palette 

wound filler

bloods

Gelatine pre made mould

mould 

witch hazel

translucent powder

Method

1.  Clean the area you are going to use with cleanser and toner to get rid of any grease and dirt which will stop the product adhering to the skin.
2.  Cut round the edge of the latex "wound" leaving some rough edges.
3.  Apply ProsAide to the wound and to the area on the skin you are about to apply it too. Wait until it all turns clear and tacky otherwise it will not stay in place.
4. Apply the wound to the skin making sure it is stuck on properly by pressing down quite firmly.
5.  using witch hazel on a baby bud start working the edges of the wound into the skin so it blends. this should dissolve the edges of the wound and make it melt into the surrounding skin.
6.  Then powder the "wound"
7.  If the wound isn't the same colour as the clients skin, then you can use the ultra foundation as a base to match them up. 
8. using a spatula you can now add wound filler to the wound. 
9. To make the wound look sore you can use the supra colour palette on and around the wound. this can also help to disguise a bad application of the wound.
10.  You can also use the baby bud to apply fake blood to the wound. 
11.  Finally it is optional to use a paint brush to flick blood onto the wound for a splattered effect. 

Creating Estella

This is my Estella face chart.

The first time I practiced my Estella was a practical lesson in which we were asked to create two sides of our character and so I created a side of Estella before meeting her husband were she looks youthful and pretty. I also created a side of Estella after meeting her husband were she has been beaten, has a black eye, and looks tired and thin from stress and lack of sleep.

I really liked the way this turned out and it inspired my final face chart.

Products

Kryolan foundation

kryolan white pepper eyeshadow

Ben Nye Bruise Wheel

Vaseline

Kyrolan Shallot eyeshadow

Fake Blood

Black Pepper eyeshadow

Illamasqua Loose Powder

Illamasqua Contour Powder

Chive Blossom Eyeshadow Kryolan

Kryolan lip LC003, LC006, LC002

Method.

1. Prep the skin with Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser. 

2. Prime the skin with Illamasqua Matte Primer, to even out the skin. 

3. Apply Kryolan foundation in clients colour, blending outwards into ears and down the neck using a buffing brush.

4. Set with Illamasqua Translucent Powder.

5. Contour the face lightly with Sculpting Powder Duo.

6. Apply blush on the cheeks.

7. Using the Eyeshadows, work White pepper all over the lid. Use Shallot lightly in the crease.

8. To the left eye apply the colours from the bruise wheel slowly building up the intensity. Line the left eye with crimson eyeliner. 

9. Add Vaseline to give shine/swelling to the left eye.

10. Work into brows with Anis/Pepper. 

11. On the left brow create a gap in the brow for two slits. create these using Shallot eyeshadow and fake blood. Apply Black shadow to create depth.

12. Apply mascara lightly over the eyelashes.

13. Create a few grazes on the cheek with a stipple sponge in some fake blood right on the cheek bone. 

14. Finish with a nude/light pink lip colour.

Products

Paddle brush

Tail comb

Hair elastics

Hair grips

Sectioning clips

Hair curlers

Dry shampoo

Desired decoration

Method

- Brush all of the hair using the paddle brush.

- Using a tail comb create a center parting.

-Draw a line with the tail comb, using the ear as a marker. Take the front two sections and section off.

- Create a U shaped section at the back of the head and create a high ponytail. 

- Curl the Hair in the ponytail.

-Twist these curls around the ponytail to create a full bun and pin in place.

- With the lower part of the hair, create ringlet curls in small sections. Face the tongs upward so they can be easily pulled out.

-Pin half of these curls to the ponytail to add fullness. Make sure the ends are still curled for decoration. 

- Split each front section in half creating four sections at the front of the head.

- Going downwards, curl the outer sections in one large curl and pin back to the ponytail.

- Split the two sections into three equal sections, and curl each. Make sure the tong is facing the back of the head and the curls fall forwards. 

- Lightly comb through each side to form them into one big curl.

- Bring the curl back towards the ponytail to create a wave at the side and height on top.

-make the curls transition by pinning a few up from the bottom.

Burns

We practised creating burns, using Gelatine. We practised with Block Gelatine from Kryolan, Gelglyk in a bottle form, and Food Gelatine by Dr.Oetker. You can decide how fresh the burn is, whether it be weeping, old, new, or shiny.

This is a burn created by my tutor on a students arm 

Kit: 

Gelatine

Microwave

Palette Knife

Supra Colours

Powder

Small Brush

Glycerine

Pus

Health and Safety

- Do a heat test before applying to the client.

-Always ask the client if they are allergic to anything. 

-Check for skin conditions/infections. 

-Always sanitise hands before working on someone. 

-Always remove product from the palette with a spatula. 

-Brushes are to be cleaned between clients. 

Method

1. Heat the Gelatine. I used the liquid form, testing every 10 seconds.

2. Using a palette knife, spread over the area of the skin that will be burnt. It is crucial to blend it out on the outside, to avoid harsh lines.

3. Pat the Gelatine using the palette knife. This will grab the Gelatine, and pull it up creating lumps, which is the burn effect. 

4. Dry with a hairdryer. Always test the hairdryer on your own skin before your clients.

5. Powder the burn.

6. Start applying the supra colour, using the depth you already have with the Gelatine. Use the supra colours to enhance this, making the burn seem deep. 

7. Fake blood, Pus and Glycerine can now be added to create a weeping blistered burn. 

I found this a lot harder than I thought I would and so would like to practice this further to make sure my technique is something Im happy with.

Miss Havisham Continuity

The week after creating Miss Havisham we then had to recreate her for continuity purposes. I practiced mine a lot and so found it a lot easier to recreate her. Although it was harder than I would thought it would of been and looking back I wish I'd taken a lot more notes and photos the first time round.

This is my Miss Havisham the second time around.

                     

These are my two Miss Havishams together. I think I recreated it pretty well although there are some things I could of worked on.